A surprisingly quick ski tour up an easily accessible 11,000er. Via Hector’s crevassed north glacier.

Logistics

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Park in a pull-out on the 93N, about 19km north of the Jasper turnoff from Lake Louise, past Hector Lake.

Trip Report

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The route begins east of the 93N up Hector Creek. After a kilometer or two you will come across a gully with lots of avalanche debris to negotiate. Skin as far as you can up towards the gully and continue up on foot. Approximate route shown above. Note that on the way down, you can traverse all the way over to skier’s right and ski the west-facing slopes back down to Hector Creek and your vehicle.

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Once above the gully, put your skis back on and continue southeast towards the moraines below Hector Glacier. Route shown above in red.

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Once at the toe of Hector Glacier, rope up and continue south navigating several open crevasses. Our approximate route was above in red, but you may need to adjust as necessary depending on snow coverage. Your goal is to reach the col between Hector’s true summit (looker’s right) and Hector sub-peak (looker’s left).

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Continuing up the glacier towards Hector, which is shrouded by cloud. Open crevasses ahead.

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A view of the route up Hector’s true summit from the col as seen from Hector sub-peak. There is some scrambling involved to reach the true summit, so bring along an axe and crampons. There is also a piton at the crux which you can use to belay and/or rappel.

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Bootpacking to the summit up a snow slope.

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Here is a closeup of the summit scramble crux on the descent. We used a rope anchored to the piton to assist with the down climb.

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An enjoyable 1600m ski right back down to our car!

Stats

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GPS route shown above in blue.

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Times and distances are round trip.

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